There's "Ship of Fools," ship of state, and ship of the desert. For us, Carnival Valor turned out to be "Ship of Surprises."
The theme of the ship's decor is "Heroes and Heroism," paying homage not just to Americans, but to heroes from the virtually every corner of the world. Nonetheless, Americana -- and America's heroes -- form the glue that unites the various rooms and public spaces. Passengers are first introduced to that theme as they board through Deck 3's atrium lobby.
One would think that America's colors, red, white and blue, would hand Carnival's interior designer Joe Farcus carte blanche to indulge in his favored bright, bold primary colors, splashing blindingly bright whites and eye-popping reds and blues throughout the ship. And there comes the first surprise. While you won't think you've strolled into the foyer of a Wall Street Bank when you board, this lobby is subdued for a Farcus design. Broad marble floors capitalize on an American flag motif, with alternating inlaid stripes of dark burnt orange (representing red) and pale gray (for white) abutting a navy blue rectangular field set with small pale gray squares (in lieu of stars). A small dance floor fronting the bar is fashioned from wavy stripes of inlaid burgundy and white-colored hardwood. And wood is used freely and copiously elsewhere in the ship, instead of brass for banisters and glass, mirrors and chrome for many wall surfaces.
To be sure, there is still plenty of Farcus bling in the details: All around the ship are gaudy molded gold leaf-gilded eagles on simulated pedestals; coffered ceilings of shiny, reflective materials; and enough blinking lights and flashing video screens to trigger a 1960's strobe light flashback.
Valor's architecture is a conventional sandwich with most public rooms on Decks 3 through 5, most fitness, spa and casual dining on Decks 9 and above, and most passenger cabins in between, or below the public room decks. This basic design has been a template for Carnival new-build construction since the introduction of Carnival Destiny in 1996.
Which is why we were so surprised to find Valor should be plagued by serious passenger flow problems, kinks that should have been ironed out years ago. Simply stated, when you want to go from Point A (as in "Aft") to Point B (as in "Bow") on one of the three public room decks -- a necessity, for example to get to the Ivanhoe Lounge (the main showroom, all the way forward) after dinner in the Washington Dining Room (all the way aft) -- you will run into a blockade somewhere amidships that will force you to detour. On Deck 3 it's the galley; on Deck 4 you don't necessarily have to climb or descend a deck to get through, as long as you don't mind having to walk through a low-ceilinged oxygen-challenged cigar bar or wind your way through a busy dining room, snaking between tables while people are giving you dirty looks over their soup spoons. On Deck 5, you can make the trip, but only by passing through another of the ship's smokiest areas, "King Boulevard," the main promenade, which is squeezed between the casino, karaoke and live music lounges, disco, and piano and wine bars, all of which are smoking-permitted.
Valor has four dining venues: the two main rooms, dubbed Lincoln and Washington; Rosie's, the huge, sprawling two-story Lido Deck restaurant (which doubles as a casual alternative dinner spot); and Scarlett's, the ship's for-fee upscale alternate nighttime eatery, an utterly charming supper club.
Rosie's is a bright and sunny spot that graphically pays tribute to that legendary icon of World War II America, Rosie the Riveter. There are several buffet lines and plenty of room to maneuver through the room with your tray. But for the guest requiring assistance carrying their food to their table, it is limited in availability at best. Indoor seating is available on Lido Deck (Deck 9) and the mezzanine one deck above. Outdoor tables are plentiful around the central pool, or on the fantail surrounding the aft pool, which is topped by a closeable dome.
The two main dining rooms are virtually identical in decor, save that each carries different bas-relief plaques of its namesake president. The lower levels of these rooms stretch the entire width of the ship and are open in the middle, allowing those not along the outer walls a quieter, less claustrophobic dining experience. Of the two rooms we recommend Washington, specifically the upper level, which is less intense and seems relatively more intimate. However, we strongly suggest asking specifically not to be seated in the Lincoln upper level, for reasons mentioned earlier. Both dining rooms have numerous banquettes accommodating parties of four, and an adequate number of tables for as many as 10. It should also be noted that Valor has an unusually high percentage of tables for two.
Serving format is traditional, with four set dinner seatings at 5:45, 6:15, 8:00 and 8:30. Service, from a dining room staff that is becoming increasingly Eastern European in makeup, is friendly, patient, professional and refreshing.
Scarlett's, located on Deck 10 and isolated from the rest of the ship's nighttime hullabaloo, is an island of low-key quiet and refinement. The name refers to the headstrong Ms. O'Hara of Tara. We might question who, in that novel or movie, qualifies for Carnival's thematic sobriquet, "Hero," in the same way we might quibble about the elegance of using plasticized imitation marble columns meant to convey the decor of a genteel antebellum plantation, but, given the superior quality of the service, food and wine list, frankly, we don't give a damn. Scarlett's is a true supper club, with a small combo that plays at a volume level that doesn't annihilate conversation, so on the dance floor, before dinner or between courses, it's possible to chat and cha cha at the same time.
But the biggest -- and most pleasant -- surprise for us about Scarlett's was the fact that the bar and dance floor are open to all passengers, even those not dining there. This was a godsend for a ship which has nary a single intimate lounge to enjoy a quiet pre-dinner cocktail or a late night tete-a-tete where you weren't pummeled by acoustic levels that would drive deadheads to order earplugs or cigarette smoke clouds so thick they created a new category of pollutant: third-hand smoke.
The menu at Scarlett's emulates the great prime meat houses like Smith and Wollensky or The Palm. There is a $30 per-person charge to dine here, plus optional gratuity. Reservations are required, but we found the room lightly booked. For those who want to play it safe, there is a signup desk in the lobby on embarkation day right at the end of the gangway. Dress code for Scarlett's is "upscale casual" (no jeans, shorts, t-shirts, etc.). If we were to pick Valor's biggest surprise it would be the food itself. It was superior by orders of magnitude in variety, concept and execution from any Carnival ship's cuisine we'd experienced in the past. The only weak spot was breakfast, which lacked any innovative offerings in both Rosie's buffet and the sit-down Washington Dining Room. To be sure, all items were well-prepared: bacon and potato patties were crisp; pastries, though limited in variety, were fresh; and the chefs at the cook-to-order egg station at Rosie's managed to move the orders along efficiently.
Lunch at Rosie's includes the four buffet lines, but adds windows for Asian, pizza, deli, burger/hot dog grill and fish and chips.
As one would expect, the grill and pizza stations' quality corresponds to how busy they are. When they are slammed, the quality increases, as their output goes straight from grill or oven to plate; when the lunchtime rush is past, you are likely to find dishes that have spent the better part of their lives under heat lamps. The deli and Asian stations did an excellent job. The deli's sandwiches were piled high, and the corned beef and pastrami were high quality and heated to just the right temperature. The Asian window served a variety of palate-pleasing pan-Asian delicacies that changed daily. Spring rolls were crisp; vegetables nicely stir fried. Preparations -- and this is a compliment -- did not cater to Western tastes. Spicy, sour and pungent dishes were unabashedly what they purported to be.
But the real diamond in the rough for lunch at Rosie's was the upstairs fish and chips restaurant. Try this one early in the week, since most passengers fail to discover it for at least half the cruise, meaning no lines and no waiting. "Fish and chips" is a misnomer. They do serve fish and chips, the fish deliciously battered and fried (and French fries the freshest, most cooked-to-order found anywhere on the ship). But that's only one choice. They also have a very nice Bouillabaisse, seared rare tuna served atop a fresh square of watermelon, fried oyster sandwiches, and a bunch of other seafood delicacies.
Dinners in the main dining rooms were inventive, made use of quality ingredients, and invariably arrived at the proper temperature. This was a cruise during which we had not a single meal we would deem a disappointment. Many menus had international accents, and there was frequent use of such trendy ingredients as feta cheese, caviar, rosehip, jicama, Yukon Gold potatoes and baby bok choy. Fusions proliferate, such as Seared Pike Perch on Minted Couscous with Artichoke Foo Yung in Crayfish Vermouth Jus. Each dinner menu included an arrangement of courses that qualified as a "Spa Menu," and vegetarian selections for each course.
Most unusual are "degustation" entrees, offering a selection of numerous small portions of a variety of dishes. "Essence of Japan," which was served at the Captain's Welcome Dinner, included: Jumbo Shrimps in Filo; Salmon and Kelp Tempura Roll in Truffled Yuzu Sauce; Petite Filet Mignon with Wasabe Pepper Sauce; Bonito Crusted Green Beans; Poached Tofu Steak on Tosa Zu and Watercress Salad.
There is continental breakfast available during breakfast hours through room service, and there is a 24-hour typical cruise line menu of snacks, desserts and sandwiches. All room service is free of charge.
This was, for us, an area of surprise and a serious case of the "What were they thinking?" The location of many public rooms, their size, or designated use seemed ill-conceived. Consider, for example, the Internet Cafe, whose sole entrance is buried inside Winston's Cigar, the ship's lounge for cigar aficionados, forcing anyone who wants to use the ship's computers to wade through a miasma of stogie smoke. Fortunately, there is WiFi available shipwide at the same rate as the cafe (40 - 75 cents per minute depending on packages) so it makes sense to bring a laptop.
The choice of placement and size for Winston's, itself, is another head-scratcher. This lounge -- a convivial, leather paean to Winston Churchill and British 1940's men's clubs -- stretches the entire width of the ship, and seats 147. We never counted more than six actually partaking of cigars, but that was enough to make passage through the room unpleasant. On the other hand, Bronx Bar, the ship's sports bar -- always a major attraction on Carnival vessels -- held only about a third as many as Winston's Cigar, and was always overflowing on days sports events were televised.
Of course, Carnival is mostly about fun, and, in addition to the musical entertainment provided in the lounges, the Shogun Club Casino does a bang up job with a slew of slots and just about every table game you've ever encountered. In addition, for those who want to get on the real poker (as opposed to "Caribbean Stud," "Let it Ride," and their ilk) can indulge in a true Vegas poker room-style Texas Hold 'Em game at one corner of the casino.
Carnival Valor's predominant color scheme continues throughout the passenger accommodations. The burnt orange color is carried by the carpeting and accented by the pastel orange upholstery. The reliance on wood as the major design accent is echoed as well. Cabinetry, end tables, moldings and other accents are natural-finished cherry. Sixty percent of standard outside cabins have balconies, though the verandahs are really too small for enjoying sunning or dining. (Ours had two reclining chairs and a small table, but there wasn't enough space to completely recline either of the chairs.) We found the amount of storage space available in both the bathroom and closets and drawers to be the most generous we've encountered on any other mass-market ship.
Each year Carnival ratchets up the in cabin amenities, the newest addition since we last sailed being bathrobes. In the bathrooms -- all with stall showers except for suites -- there is a bowl of promotional samples, the sort that appear in your mailbox about the time Procter & Gamble launches a new product. Our selection included toothpaste, pain relievers, moisturizer and face cream, mouthwash, antacids, and disposable razors. Shampoo and body wash dispensers are in the shower stall. One nice inclusion in bathrooms was a swing-out magnifying makeup and shaving mirror.
Cabins include television -- with satellite feeds of the major networks, CNN and cable movies -- and a host of infomercial-style offerings hyping everything from onboard shops to casino, spa and shore excursions. There is also a channel devoted to re-broadcasting talks, activities or other events in the Ivanhoe Lounge. Interactive choices include onboard account review, and shore excursion descriptions and booking.
Each stateroom also has a safe and minibar, stocked with a good selection of beer, wine, water, juices, soft drinks and alcoholic beverages, as well as snacks. Cabin stewards check the fridge once or twice during the cruise and refill as needed.
Suites are slightly less than twice the size of standard cabins, and include the additional amenities of bathtubs and VCR's.
There are 18 "family staterooms" with floor-to-ceiling windows (so parents need not worry about Junior deciding to play "I am the king of the world!" while balancing on the balcony railing) located on Deck 11, one deck below the kids' pool area and Camp Carnival.
Prospective passengers should exercise care when booking to avoid surprises. Six Category 5A standard outside staterooms, for example, have portholes rather than windows. There are a few Category 6B outside cabins with obstructed views, and a good number of cabins with twin beds that can't be combined into a single king bed.
On Carnival Valor sea days mean fun and games. There are the usual staples: bingo, horseracing, trivia and pool games. There's also a subset derived from popular television shows: "Survivor," "Family Feud" and "The Newlywed Game." For those who like to compete on a different level, there are the ubiquitous art auctions where passengers can butt heads to see who can snare the most objets d'art. What lectures and seminars there are really not-so-thinly disguised self-promotional presentations mounted by the boutiques or spa.
When in port, the ship mounts a very efficient shore excursion operation, though few of the offerings seemed unique. One exception was the "Rapid Explorer high-speed ferry to St. Barth's," offered in St. Maarten, allowing passengers who would rather spend their time in that less-visited, chichi port a way to get there in 40 minutes. It is also unique in that it is offered at a price through the shore excursion department which is lower than the price the operator lists on their brochure! Shore excursion personnel don't regularly accompany guests on excursions as they do on some ships, but ship's photographers often do.
Valor has a complete range of musical offerings from heavily classical to heavy metal. For those who enjoy spending their days soaking up rays around the pools, there is a requisite island band that plays from after lunch till just before dinner. A classical trio holds forth at tea in Winston's Cigar and before dinner in the lobby. Other choices on our sailing included a solo blues guitarist (who performed just outside the casino), a jazz trio performing nightly in Winston's Cigar, a rock band in the Paris Hot Jazz Club, and a pianist at the rotating piano in the center of the Lindy Hop Piano Bar. We found all these performers to be excellent at their craft.
The Eagles Show Lounge was home to a nightly round of Karaoke, and the One Small Step dance club was disco-central late nights. It is in the decor and execution of theme in these lounges that the typically quirky, whimsical Farcus style emerges: Lindy Hop, commemorating Lindbergh's trans-Atlantic flight, has the piano bar sandwiched between three-dimensional models of the Empire State Building and Eiffel Tower on opposite walls; simulated stars twinkle in the black ceiling under which a model of the Spirit of St. Louis spins its propellers and an animated pathway of lights trace the route of flight. One Small Step pays tribute to Neil Armstrong's walk on the moon, with reproduction volcanoes that periodically belch clouds of mist, while planets and stars adorn the ceiling. The illuminated white marble floor is decorated with black "footprints," as are the tabletops.
Ivanhoe, the main show lounge, covers an expanse of three decks. We found a substantial number of seats less than desirable due to intervening columns or being under a claustrophobic-feeling balcony overhang. Seating is in banquettes with fixed small pedestals for drinks, or wide, theater-type seating in the balconies. The theme refers to the hero of Sir Walter Scott's medieval period novel, and is executed with faux tapestries and simulated wood beams. The proscenium is masked by a representation of a medieval castle, and fiberglass knights in armor line the walls. The whole thing is a bit kitschy, even for Joe Farcus.
The ship, however, does make good use of the room's capabilities, with two production shows (one for each formal night), a tribute to nightclubs around the world, and a review based on the music and trends of the 1980's. Other nights saw various variety acts: singers, comics, jugglers, etc.
A trait inherited from Carnival Destiny, the line's first 100,000-plus-ton ship, the open sunning area on Carnival Valor is maximized by structuring eight tiered plateaus from just above Deck 10 to the surface of Deck 9, creating an expanse of space to place chaises. (Not that it makes enough difference that there isn't still a problem with books and towels mysteriously appearing on lounges at 7 a.m., though no actual guests show up to use the chairs till after 11). As for adult pools, there are three: two on Deck 9, each with two whirlpool spas, and one, basically a splash pool at the end of the waterslide, on Deck 10. Kids have their own wading pool on Deck 12 right outside Camp Carnival.
Valor's spa is a Steiner franchise operation offering sauna, massage and salon services, as well as a fully equipped gym with loads of modern workout machines, free weights and a whole area devoted solely to "spinning." The facility faces forward, offering dramatic views through picture windows.
New offerings from the spa include tooth whitening and men's barbering.
Other fitness options include a jogging track on Deck 11 with nine circuits equaling a mile, and basketball and volleyball courts. There is a golf-driving cage, and instruction is offered through the ship's onboard golf program.
Every year, especially with the launch of new classes of vessel, Carnival's family programs and facilities are expanded. For that reason, Carnival predicts a record 525,000 junior cruisers fleetwide in 2006.
Kids are broken into groups by age. There are three groups under the Camp Carnival banner, ranging from preschool to preteen (2 - 5, 6 - 8, and 9 - 11). There is an additional young teen group for 12- to 14-year-olds. A new program, Club O2, has been developed in conjunction with Coca-Cola for older teens (15- to 17-year-olds). Generally, the younger the group, the more their activities are conducted in the Camp Carnival playroom; the youngest ones are there for 90 percent of their supervised activities; the Club O2 kids' programs range the entire extent of the ship.
The playroom measures 4,200 square ft. and features a video wall displaying nonstop movies and cartoons, a soft play area for children under the age of 2 (admitted only for supervised nighttime group babysitting), and ample space and equipment for arts and crafts -- everything from the standbys of papier-mache and painting to devices to make spin and sand art and even candy. There is also a shift to more educational activities: a computer lab with educational games, "SeaNotes," (a music program), "H2Ocean," (science), and "EduCruise" (culture, history and geography of the Caribbean).
For preteens and teens there's the Caboose, an 1,800-square-ft. facility featuring a huge video arcade, a non-alcoholic bar, and dance club with its own DJ. On port days there are "just for teens" shore excursions for the 12 through 17 year olds.
Dining options in the formal dining rooms include the usual kids' menus and a daily kids' special. Kids can also dine nightly with the youth counselors sans parents in Rosie's.
Group babysitting is available nightly at a rate of $6 per hour for the first child and $4 per hour for each addition child from the same family.
Expect a largely American, high energy, casual group with a penchant for having fun. The demographics for Caribbean sailings tend to skew to the younger end of the scale. (Carnival estimates only 30 percent over 55). Though Carnival's passengers tend to be fiercely loyal, because of low fares this is very much an entry-level cruise for many, so there are always a large number of first-timers.
Casual, casual, casual. Though blue jeans are now off the verboten list, shorts and t-shirts are still no-no's at dinner ... but that's about it. Even Scarlett's does not have a dress code beyond the nebulous "dressy casual."
There are two formal nights, and a larger percentage of passengers go to the dressier end of the scale: men in tuxedos, women in cocktail dresses and gowns.
$10 per person per day is automatically charged to guests' shipboard accounts. This amount can be adjusted either by requesting the purser to do so, or by augmenting the automatic charge with a little extra cash in an envelope. Maitre d's are not included in the $10 daily charge. An automatic gratuity of 15 percent is added to drink orders.
Overview
A laidback tropical island with copious amounts of candy-pink colonial (and sometimes funky) charm, Nassau is the capital of the Commonwealth of the Bahamas -- and the largest city on New Providence, one of its smaller islands. In fact, half of the Bahamas' quarter million residents live on New Providence. Two other islands -- Cable Beach and Paradise Island -- are but a stone's throw from downtown Nassau.
A city with a vibrant swashbuckling pirate past, it offers tropical tree-lined streets filled with horse-drawn surreys ruled by policemen in white starched jackets and colorful pith helmets; soft-sanded beaches for kicking back and catching ocean breezes; lavish Vegas-type casinos with attractions to match; dozens of obscenely good restaurants and enough duty-free shopping stops to please even the most jaded of fashionistas.
It's the largest and one of the most well-trafficked cruise ship ports, handling up to seven vessels in a day. One reason for its immense popularity is its close and easy proximity to the Florida coast -- making it the perfect stop, if not the cornerstone, for many Caribbean trips, be it for overnight or weeklong voyages.
Language English. Currency & Best Way to Get Money Legal tender is the Bahamian dollar, which is equivalent in value to the U.S. dollar. Both U.S. and Bahamian dollars are accepted interchangeably throughout the island. European currency is not, so exchange is necessary at an ATM (you'll find them at Rawson Square, Bay Street and at the casinos) or bank. All banks and their branches are generally open Monday through Thursday 9:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and until 5 p.m. on Friday. For more currency exchange information, visit www.oanda.com.
Note: Some hotels and restaurants add a fee for cashing traveler's checks. Best Souvenir Junkanoo handcrafts.
Best Afternoon Tea The Palm Court Lounge inside the British Colonial Hilton because it's so elegantly James-Bond-when-Sean-Connery-had-hair (Thunderball and Never Say Never Again were filmed here) and downright fantastic. Tuesday - Saturday, 3 p.m. - 5 p.m. One Bay St., Nassau. Best Cocktail Splish-Splash at the Poop Deck Sandy Point where a Bacardi Bartender of the Year, Oswald Greenslade, concocts a drink made from Bacardi Select, Nassau Royal Liqueur, pineapple juice, banana, cream and sugar-cane syrup. FYI: There's Happy Hour every night from 5 p.m. - 7 p.m. -- complete with complimentary treats. Where You're Docked Prince George Wharf, near Rawson Square (as well as the Bahamas Ministry of Tourism for picking up maps, brochures, etc.), in the heart of Nassau. Hanging Around The Straw Market at its temporary digs along the waterfront near Bay Street (just beyond the British Colonial Hilton) is nearby. A market is being built closer to its old location (after the original was destroyed in a fire in 2001) and is scheduled to open in early 2005. It's perhaps Nassau's most popular attraction, and you'll still find all things straw and artwork made by locals, including shopping bags, handbags, hats and wonderful dolls. Monday - Saturday, 8 a.m. to about 3 p.m. Bay Street -- where you'll find tonier shops like Gucci -- is also nearby, as are the dozens of shops inside the Nassau International Bazaar at Woodes Rogers Walk and Charlotte Street.
Getting Around Since the island is fairly compact, the transportation of choice here is walking.
There are a handful of car-rental companies such as Avis (www.avis.com) and Budget (www.budget.com) at Prince George Wharf as well as on Paradise Island and at the airport, but they are pretty expensive, ranging in price from $55 to $110 for the day. And then there is that pesky left-side-of-the-road driving to deal with.
Taxis are plentiful and can be hailed everywhere, be it right by your ship or at all the hotels and restaurants. Count on sharing the taxi with other tourists and locals. Rates are fixed by law. Typical fares to Paradise Island are $4 per person, plus a 15 percent gratuity.
Jitney buses run between the downtown area to Cable Beach and Paradise Island from early morning until about 7 p.m. at 30-minute intervals. Fares vary (though generally about $0.75), depending on route. Exact change is required.
The Nassau Water Taxi departs every 30 minutes from behind the Straw Market to Paradise Island, operating daily from 9 a.m. - 6 p.m. The roundtrip cost is $6. Notes: Though the trip takes just 10 minutes, the water taxi may not depart on time. Since the operators tend to give you a bit of a "tour" along the way, expect to be approached for a gratuity.
Horse-drawn surreys can be found around Rawson Square and sometimes along Bay Street. They run about $5 for 30 minutes, but are negotiable. Note: From May to October, the horses rest from the day's sun from 1 p.m. to 3 p.m.).
Watch Out For Calling home can be tricky, particularly from pay phones because they don't accept U.S. calling cards (the kind you buy at Wal-Mart for instance). You have to buy a BATELCO (Bahamas Telephone Co.) card from their offices (there's one on Shirley Street and inside the Marathon Mall on Robertson Road) or from vending machines -- as well as many shops and restaurants. Don't Miss Check out these island attractions:
Head over to the man-made island of Arawak Cay, a local beach dusted with pastel-colored shacks, incredibly fresh conch from vendors cracking the mollusks right before your eyes, fried fish and grits, lime-marinated conch and plenty of coconut milk laced with gin. Very popular, especially with the locals, and very crowded, especially on weekend evenings from 5 p.m. until midnight. On the harbor, across from Fort Charlotte.
Pink flamingos, honey bears and peacocks, oh my! You'll find all this and more at Ardastra Gardens. Wait'll you see the flamingos parade in drill formation (10:30 a.m, 2:10 p.m. and 4:10 p.m.). Daily 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Chippingham Rd., Nassau.
If you'd rather just spend the day as a guest at the showy 34-acre Atlantis Resort on Paradise Island, consider purchasing a hard-to-come-by day pass for about $25 ($19 for kids). The pass gets you access to most of the must-see sights at the resort, such as the Dig, the marine habitats and their beach. What you won't get is the fun stuff around the pools and waterslides. You'll see a kiosk selling the passes by the cruise terminal -- or you can try to purchase one at the resort.
The number one photo op on the island is the balcony of 18th-century Balcony House, which also happens to be Nassau's oldest wooden structure. Step inside this island landmark to see the mahogany staircase said to have been salvaged from a shipwreck in the mid-1800's. Monday - Wednesday and Friday 10 a.m. - 4:30 p.m., Thursday only until 1 p.m. Trinity Pl., Nassau.
For dolphin encounters of the bottlenose kind and seven stunning beaches, head for Blue Lagoon Island (a.k.a. Salt Cay). If it looks a bit familiar, you saw it in the film Splash (the beach scenes were filmed here). There are plenty of water sports to try and hammocks to idle in, but for all things dolphin, make sure you plan ahead (www.dolphinswims.com). You'll find plenty of amenities such as showers and changing rooms too. Catch the ferry from the cruise terminal.
One of the most popular cultural stops on the island is the 18th-century Fort Charlotte. It's fun to roam the dungeons and underground passageways and see the waterless moat -- but some say the amazing views of the harbor from the ramparts is the real don't-miss here. Two other forts worth checking out are Fort Fincastle (overlooking the town from Bennet's Hill) and Fort Montagu (E. Bay St.). Monday - Saturday 8 a.m. - 4 p.m. Chippingham Rd., Nassau.
For those who love British pomp and circumstance, see the changing of the guard at the Government House every other Saturday from 10 a.m. to noon, accompanied by the music of the Royal Bahamas Police Force Band. The official residence of the governor-general of the Bahamas since 1801, this bubble-gum-pink mansion is an excellent example of Bahamian-British and American Colonial architecture. Duke St., Nassau.
Kids love the Pirates of Nassau, a rather new, interactive museum filled with pirate stuff. They can walk through a 75-foot, three-masted pirate ship, too. Monday - Saturday 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Tours are scheduled every half-hour. Marlborough St., Nassau.
We dare you to take a royal climb up the 66 steps of the Queen's Staircase, which was carved out of calcareous, a coral-based sandstone at the end of the 18th century. The stupendous view is the prize for such athleticism. Elizabeth Ave., Nassau.
Hop aboard the Seaworld Explorer for a 90-minute submarine tour. Think underwater observatory, as you descend five feet below the water to observe the "sea gardens" through large glass windows. Daily 11:30 a.m.; they add an additional tour at 1:30 p.m. from December through June. You must make reservations. Deveaux St., Nassau. Been There, Done That The Cloister -- it's right in front of the Ocean Club -- is a 14th-century cloister, built in France by Augustinian monks and reassembled here stone by stone. Huntington Hartford, the A & P grocery heir, purchased the cloister from the estate of William Randolph Hearst at Sam Simeon in California. This is one of only four cloisters that have ever been removed stone by stone from France. Paradise Island.
Under the heading of Mardi Gras fun, check out the museum dedicated to the flashy Junkanoo Festival (a middle-of-the-night event the days after Christmas and New Year's Day) at the Junkanoo Expo. It's a chance to see the humongous costumes and floats. Daily 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Prince George Wharf.
Take a 25-minute helicopter tour with Majestic Tours for a breathtaking trip over Nassau. You'll roundtrip from the Heliport on Paradise Island for the bird's eye views. Daily departures every 30 minutes from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
The conch vendors are just part of the scene at Potters Cay, a Bahamian marketplace beneath Paradise Island Bridge. Here, you'll find plenty of vendors selling locals goods to both the locals and tourists.
Beaches Best Beach for Active Types: Paradise Island where you can find all manner of water sports rentals and eateries. Some say the most beautiful one here is Cabbage Beach, on the north shore. Another good choice is Cable Beach, with all the usual beach amenities and dazzling beachfront resorts along baby-powder-soft sand. For great snorkeling, try Love Beach near Gambier Village, about 12 miles west of downtown Nassau.
Secluded Beach: South Ocean Beach, close to Adelaide Village. Caves Beach in Rock Point (close to the airport turnoff on Blake Road) is another good out-of-the-way choice.
Lunching Anthony's Caribbean Grill: Think TGIF...Caribbean style. Gourmet-type pizzas topped with jerk chicken, very excellent ribs doused in an awesome barbecue sauce and warm-weather cocktails bigger than a house. Per-person cost for three courses including wine will run about $20. Daily from 11 a.m. Casino Dr., Paradise Island.
Crocodile's Waterfront Bar & Grill: Waterside dining under thatched tiki huts and island drinks galore -- consider this place if you're looking for funky-casual. The Bahamian-style fried chicken is excellent. Per-person cost for three courses including wine will run about $20. Daily 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. E. Bay St., Nassau.
Cafe Matisse: Everyone loves this place for its excellent Italian food. Their spinach gnocchi topped off with Gorgonzola cheese and a walnut sauce is amazing. Per-person cost for three courses including wine will run about $32. Monday - Saturday noon - 3 p.m. Reservations recommended. Bank Lane, Nassau.
Graycliff: Food's great, they have nearly 180,000 bottles of wine (worth millions of dollars) and they make their own cigars. We say go all out and order the Perigord Goose Liver black truffles! Reservations a must. Monday - Friday noon - 3 p.m. Per-person cost for three courses including wine will run about $50 W. Hill St, Nassau.
Pink Pearl Cafe: Perhaps a bit on the formal side, that still doesn't take away from the really good food served here -- Bahamian style. The creamy, chunky conch chowder is divine, but the banana fritters capped off with a nutmeg ice cream drizzled over with hot butterscotch are beyond fabulous. Three courses with wine will run about $25. Tuesday - Sunday 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. E. Bay St., Nassau.
Staying in Touch Prince George Wharf Cruise Terminal, Nassau. Internet Cafe, Bay Street Mall, Nassau. Cybercafe, Robertson Rd., Nassau.
NASSAU, BAHAMAS
What makes Nassau so special? Picture an idyllic place with stretches of perfect white-sand beaches, gracefully swaying coconut palms offering oases of shade, and warm, crystal-clear waters revealing the secrets of incredible multi-colored marine life. Whether you spend the day shopping for duty-free gifts and mementos, taking a carriage ride past sorbet-colored buildings, or touring in a glass-bottom boat, chances are you'll leave this happy place in the Bahamas with lots of beautiful memories.
ST. THOMAS, USVI
Not all of St. Thomas' treasures are buried. Most of them are right in the open on this gorgeous island, home of the infamous Bluebeard's Tower. Whether looking for jewels, crystal, perfume and fine wines in the shops of Charlotte Amalie, or soaking up the sun on the incredible beaches, you'll marvel at the wealth of history on this treasure-filled paradise.
ST. MAARTEN, NA
Where else can you experience the food, style and hospitality of two separate countries in an exotic West Indian setting? St. Maarten is divided between French St. Martin in the north and Dutch St. Maarten in the south. Both sides of this 37-square-mile island offer beautiful ocean vistas, gourmet cuisines, first-rate water sports and beaches, and some of the best duty-free shopping in the world.
Still not convinced you should join us on the Music Business Cruise? Just eavesdrop on a recent preview call with Dave Hooper and "Captain Lou" Edwards. Please turn up your speakers and click PLAY to listen to this 1 hour call:
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Head over to the man-made island of Arawak Cay, a local beach dusted with pastel-colored shacks, incredibly fresh conch from vendors cracking the mollusks right before your eyes, fried fish and grits, lime-marinated conch and plenty of coconut milk laced with gin. Very popular, especially with the locals, and very crowded, especially on weekend evenings from 5 p.m. until midnight. On the harbor, across from Fort Charlotte.
