Carnival Liberty -- the line's fourth Conquest-class vessel, won't surprise folks familiar with the Conquest-style layout, public spaces and cabin amenities. As with its siblings, the ship features a plethora of themed bars and lounges, four restaurants, two main pool areas, a spa and fitness facility, a sprawling casino, and Harry's, a reservations-only supper club. Carnival Liberty boasts a high ratio of private balconies, a library, an ornate three-deck theater and a series of shops, and offers teens their own nightclub (which is uniquely located along the promenade with the rest of the "adult" fare). It's pretty safe stuff.
Where Carnival Liberty does elicit some head scratching is in its decorating scheme, celebrating the craft of art rather than having anything at all to do with the concept of liberty -- which appears, at first, a bit esoteric for a Carnival vessel.
At least it may well seem a stretch to those who haven't traveled on Carnival ever -- or even lately -- and who may still expect a neon-palace-type experience. That's because Carnival, long dubbed the "Fun Ships" line (with an onboard ambience that in the past has been more likely to emphasize wacky, high-energy antics and oft-cartoonesque design schemes), is in the midst of a gentle evolution.
Much of what has earned Carnival its distinctively lighthearted niche (and it's pretty much solely their niche these days) is a unique joie de vivre, an "anything goes" philosophy both in physical features -- bars, pools and theaters especially, not to mention entertainment varied enough to please just about anybody -- and in silly activities. If passengers were required to compromise on food, itinerary, a sophisticated decor or even service in the past ... well, nobody's perfect.
But on our recent inaugural voyage on Carnival Liberty, this occasional (rather than habitual) Carnival cruiser found the experience genuinely exceptional in just about every possible way. Service was outstanding, both personal and efficient. Our standard balcony cabin was charming, low-key and spacious. The entertainment, particularly at night, was so varied and offered so many options -- Vegas floor shows, jazz, the fabulous "piano man" who packed in the crowds with his group sing-alongs -- that they kept us up way, way, way past our normal bedtime. Cuisine definitely exceeded my expectations, particularly at Harry's Supper Club -- not to mention Emile's buffet, the fish-and-chips bar, the sushi station and even the pizzeria (which made fabulous thin-crust pies). Only our dining room meals were mediocre.
And the artisan-themed public spaces designed by Carnival's uber-interior architect Joe Farcus were much more sophisticated than I expected: the colorful glass lamps along the walls of the art nouveau Emile's; the elegance of the Antiquarian Library, with its book-binding theme; the Cabinet Room, a bar for jazz and cigars that was downright low key in its elegance; and the genuinely lovely Flowers bar, which literally seemed a breath of fresh air with its garden pastel watercolors tucked behind iron gate like fixtures.
And yet, in an era in which some cruise lines are abandoning long-occupied niches to broaden their audiences -- and, in the process, forgetting all about what made them special in the first place -- Carnival is making no such mistake with Carnival Liberty. The line, which has already successfully evolved from a party-hearty budget option to one that's equally geared to singles, families and seniors (no easy feat there), is simply tweaking its well-established formula. Travelers are becoming more sophisticated and discerning across the board and Carnival, especially through its newer ships, is simply raising its bar to meet the new demand via coffee bars, supper clubs and sushi stations. And even while the line embraces a new, subtle sophistication, an oddly placed alarm sensor -- like those that appear in mall shops -- sits outside the photo shop. The reason? To prevent theft of photos!
Ultimately, the ship's onboard pizzeria best makes the point that Carnival Liberty can serve many masters well: Good ol' pepperoni sat side by side with a pie featuring goat cheese -- and both pretty much flew out of the oven.
Dining
On Carnival Liberty, the two main dining rooms offer the traditional set-tablemates, set-time dinner scenario (and are open-seating at breakfast and lunch). The Silver Olympian Restaurant is the nicer one in that it's located aft and so is framed by three walls of windows; the Golden Olympian is located in a more central spot. Both offer the same menus. At dinner, low-carb and vegetarian fare is offered as well as Spa Carnival choices. When I say that the highlight of our meal one night was watching the effervescent servers don wigs and jump up on serving stations to energetically dance to the strains of Lou Vega's "Hey Baby" (and they were awesome), well, that should say it all.
What I frankly found more appetizing than the main dining rooms was every other option for noshing on the ship. The two-level Emile's, a buffet venue, offers hot and cold buffet fare for breakfast and lunch (though I would advise folks in the mood for eggs to take a turn at the omelet station rather than eat the pre-made stuff). The food itself is displayed mostly in cafeteria-style lines, with desserts (and sometimes salads) occupying a kiosk of its own. A separate station also offers deli sandwiches; a "Taste of the Nations" station offers varying international cuisines. Don't miss Fish & Chips; located on the second level of the Lido, it's easy to bypass, but the offerings -- from calamari salad to scrumptious fried oysters -- were delightful and prepared upon request. Adjacent to the Lido, in the aft pool area, is the much-praised pizzeria and, on the opposite side, a counter for burgers, hot dogs and the like.
On the Promenade, two gustatory highlights include the Jardin Cafe (the coffee was great and the pastries and deserts ... well, let's just say they were irresistible) and the Origami Sushi Bar, adjacent (open evenings only).
Harry's Supper Club, a reservations-only gourmet experience, levies one of the highest service tabs in cruising -- $30 per person -- and it's worth every penny. Harry's specializes in quality cuts of filet mignon (and a 24-ounce porterhouse), lobster, veal chops, lamb chops and Chilean sea bass, and its wine list is definitely one of the industry's most intriguing. A combo performs during dinner (and, whether dining at Harry's or not, the venue has a lovely bar).
We tried Liberty's 24-hour room service numerous times (and even found ourselves ordering tuna sandwiches at 3 a.m., testing the actual around-the-clock quality of the operation) and it was exceptional. Items are fairly limited to salads and sandwiches (and continental breakfast, unless residing in a suite), but they were fresh and well-made.
And if you're still not sated, Carnival's one of the few lines that still offer the occasional and splendiferous midnight buffet -- the Chocolate Extravaganza is worth missing a few hours sleep.
Public Rooms
On Carnival Liberty, every room has not only a theme that's tied in with the artisan scheme but also a story -- which gives bars and other spots a nice added element of interest. The center of the activity is the ship's nine-deck-high atrium; here, the Grand Villa Garden features ironwork over lovely, lighthearted flowers in pastels.
Another room worth appreciating is the Venetian Palace, the ship's main theater, using as its major design element Murano glass made in Venice. There are also colorful tiles and chandeliers ... and check out the ceiling, which is dotted with the famous Venetian Carnival masks.
Other public rooms include the Antiquarian Library (lovely as it, is the book selection is pretty meager so you'll want to bring your own supply); the Victoria Lounge, the secondary theater, which is genuinely elegant with its theme being English-style majolica glassware; and the Empress Room, a tiny gem of a room with a fake fireplace whose design revolves around Chinese Cloisonne.
Carnival Liberty has a hard-to-find Internet cafe (it's tucked away behind the Cabinet Bar) and the number of computers is underwhelming -- there were lines on our trip. The good news is the ship is very Wi-Fi-friendly; I'd advise you to bring your own laptop.
Cabins
Carnival Liberty's cabins occupy the usual Carnival range (no surprises here), and are pleasantly larger than industry average from insides on up.
In cabins from the inside category to standard balcony and including picture window, decor is a pleasant amalgam of peachy and soft yellow tones. Insides come with chairs; all others have a seating area with a sofa (some are pull-outs) and coffee table. One way in which Carnival distinguishes itself is by offering beds that convert from twins to a king (other cruise lines use more narrow twins that, doubled, equal a queen). Beds are outfitted with soft linens and duvets.
On the technology front, beyond in-cabin wireless Internet access, there's an interactive television system that offers everything from pay-per-view movies to reservation capabilities. Color televisions with remotes, safes (Carnival recommends you use a credit card to lock them instead of your room key, making it impossible to secure that particular credit card), filled mini-fridges (price cards are offered), and phones with voice mail fill out the rest of the amenities. Storage was excellent.
All bathrooms in these categories feature only showers (with the type of shower curtain that seems to know how to snake its way around you; make sure it's tucked inside or you'll flood the floor). Mirrors above the sink are flanked with shelves for toiletries. A sampling of free items is offered (it changes; ours included razors, dental floss and the dubious innovation of Crest orange-flavored toothpaste -- though, since we forgot ours, we weren't too choosy). Showers dispense gel and shampoo from anchored containers. Towels provided were not only generous in quantity but also quite nice in quality.
Balconies, for those standard cabins that have them, are pretty shallow but the furnishings are nice: one mesh adjustable chair, one regular chair and a small table.
This ship, likes it siblings, offers family-friendly accommodations. Most notable are those with floor-to-ceiling windows.
Suites are not quite twice the size of balcony cabins, but plenty roomy. Beyond the extra space, there are more bells and whistles, such as bathrooms with tubs and televisions with VCR's.
Entertainment
Frankly, the three-deck-high Venetian Palace is such a spectacular theater -- with its Murano glass, funky jester-like patterns on the chairs and wild Venetian masks on the ceiling -- that just walking in gives you a buzz. On Carnival Liberty, three mainstay shows are presented, all in the Vegas mindset. These include "Rock Down Broadway," "Wonderful World" and "Singin' with the Big Band."
Introduced in a very low-key fashion is Carnival Cruise Lines' first-ever outdoor movie screen. Carnival's Seaside Theater is similar to that developed by Princess Cruises; towering over the main pool deck is a 270-square-ft. screen that thrums with programming day and night. During the day, the screen played music videos and basically took over the role of a band, while at night a variety of films were played, both family-oriented such as "Shrek" and retro-hits like "Titanic"; late in the evenings, concerts featuring performers such as Tom Jones were shown. Alas, it seemed as if Carnival wasn't really sure how to best handle the Seaside Theater on our voyage -- deck chairs were stacked high, there wasn't any genuine incentive to check it out (whereas Princess offers steamer rugs, free popcorn and a drinks service) and as a result, the area was pretty underutilized at night.
Far more popular is the indoor Promenade, an avenue of sorts that connects most of the bars, lounges and entertainment options. From here, you can check out the sports-themed Gloves Bar (which was rarely crowded and had the most comfortable leather chairs!); Hot & Cool, the disco whose decor celebrates the art of tattoos; Paparazzi, a wine bar that sits in a crook in the hallway and, as such, is the best people-watching spot onboard (another good place was the Flower Bar, in the lobby); Piano Man, which can get quite raucous as people sing along to the best of 60's, 70's, and 80's pop music; and the Jardin Cafe for after-dinner noshing. Cabinet, the ship's cigar bar and jazz venue, is tucked away a deck below but devotees managed to find it anyway. On the other hand, places like the Stage, billed as offering live music and karaoke, and the Empress Bar in the Club Lounge, were as desolate as graveyards.
During the day, Carnival features the usual wacky antics along with bingo, bad-hair-day seminars and shopping in its duty-free emporiums.
As far as shore excursions are concerned, we were quite impressed with the variety of options offered on our European voyage. In addition to motorcoach trips, there were also active adventures; for instance, in Livorno (the port for Tuscany), shore excursions ranged from "Medieval Lucca by Bike" to "Wines of Tuscany" as well as the more traditional tour of Pisa and Florence.
Fitness & Recreation
The only big downer on Carnival Liberty is its main pool area. Oddly, the centerpiece of the main area, here called "Tivoli," is two big whirlpools -- the pool itself is tucked off to the side, literally under an overhang. It didn't inspire visions of wacky pool games, that's for sure. Seating is terraced so people are spread out all over the place -- I thought the configuration was confusing. Above the main pool area is Carnival's famous slide.
Much more appealing was the pool aft. The Versailles pool is center stage with two big whirlpools off to the side. This area has a retractable roof in case of inclement area and also has the advantage of being the site of both the grill and the pizzeria (plus a nice bar) so there's good reason to plant yourself down and spend the day.
The Spa Carnival health and fitness center pretty much features the usual (an expansive fitness center with a separate workout area; some classes, like Pilates and yoga require a $10 fee) and a funky waterfall with a Jacuzzi.
The spa itself is pleasant if a tad barren in decor (no extravagant Thai or Santa Fe desert themes). The Beauty Salon has one wall lined by windows -- a perfect scenic place for folks getting pedicures and manicures. Our ginger/lime salt scrub and massage was exceptional ... and there was no Steiner product pitch afterwards! You can buy all the products you desire, though, in the spa's stand-alone boutique.
There's a jogging track.
Family
Camp Carnival's facility on Carnival Liberty encompasses some 4,200 square ft. First up is an enclosed play area -- features include an arts-and-crafts center, a video wall, a soft play area, a computer lab, PlayStation 2 consoles and a library. There's also a wading pool just outside.
Carnival divides kids into four age groups, and has introduced more edu-tainment offerings into its programs. Among them are Sea Notes, a musical program; H2Ocean, which focuses on hands-on science projects; EduCruise, which features interactive projects on ports of call; and ExerSeas, a series of recreational and fitness activities. Camp Carnival also offers activities that involve family members.
Most impressive was the ship's teen disco. Rather than lump the teens with the rest of the kids, its high-energy Without Batteries disco is in a central location right on the promenade -- a few doors down from the adult disco. The club itself looked quite cool -- it's themed around antique toymaking before batteries were necessary -- but high-tech toys aren't lacking. The dance floor was outfitted with special sensitive light panels that recreate your footprints as you walk across. Other features include a big juice bar in the center, multiple video screens, flashing lights and arcade games. Next door is another area of arcade games, this one open to kids (and adults) of all ages. Another cool feature: Teen-targeted shore experiences are offered.
Group babysitting is available; cost is $6 per hour for the first child, $4 per hour for each additional kid in the same family.
Dress Code
There are two formal nights on a seven-night trip and most people really do dress up (about 30 percent of men wore tuxedos). The rest of the time the dress code is country club casual. Daytimes, dress is very casual.
Gratuity
Carnival automatically tags a $10 per person, per day gratuity onto onboard accounts; to adjust it, go to the purser's desk. Drinks get a 15 percent gratuity. In the spa, the gratuity is at your discretion.
San Juan
Statues in San Juan
Overview
As an anchor on Eastern and Southern Caribbean itineraries -- not to mention a turnaround port for many ships -- just about all cruisers, at some point or another, are going to wind up in San Juan. And while indeed, Puerto Rico's urban hub is a U.S. territory and boasts many Americanisms (Senor Frogs has a prime outpost and you'll never want for a McDonald's Big Mac), this is a place that often gets short shrift by cruise travelers rushing from ship to airport (and vice versa).
That's a shame because of all America's Caribbean islands, Puerto Rico offers the most exotic aura. The melange of indigenous Taino culture combined with European and African influences in San Juan (and all of Puerto Rico, for that matter) is one major factor. Add to that its own influences in areas ranging from cuisine to music and from history to art. And there's more: folks who have traveled to Cuba say that Old San Juan reminds them more of Cuba, at times, than Cuba itself! It's also very Spanish (think Seville) and even Italian (reminiscent of Naples) and, finally, just a wee bit South America (like Argentina).
For most folks who either visit San Juan as a day-stop on a Caribbean itinerary or embark or disembark there, the island's biggest appeal is, the old city. Cruise ships dock right in the heart of Old San Juan, which dates back to the 16th century. The old, walled city has been exquisitely preserved, and its sprawling forts, cobblestone streets, antique shops and art galleries make it an idea first stop. Its mainstream attractions include the imposing El Morro fort, which dates back to 1539; the Cathedral of San Juan, where the island's first governor, Ponce de Leon, is buried; La Fortaleza, the oldest governor's mansion on U.S. soil; several colonial plazas; and the triumvirate of Calle del Cristo, Calle San Jose and Calle Fortaleza for shopping. Calle del Cristo, in particular, is chock-full of art galleries, artisan studios and distinctive boutiques.
But if you're a been-there-done-that visitor to Old San Juan, there's much more to explore. And there's one more thing to keep in mind, particularly for cruises that begin in San Juan: because airlift is more limited to San Juan than, say, port cities like Miami or Ft. Lauderdale, cruise ships typically wait until the last minute -- sometimes as late as 10 p.m. or even beyond -- to sail away. Which makes it possible to sample some of the city's vibrant nightlife (as long as you keep an eye on the clock).
Best Cocktail Medalla Light is the local beer and while Bacardi is the better known rum produced in Puerto Rico, the locals prefer Don Q, an equally, if not, more venerable brand. For a great thirst quencher, try Marmalade's M317 -- Cointreau jelly, limoncello, triple sec, Campari and grapefruit espuma (it's a whipped cream without eggs); this is a martini by the way, and, no, I didn't have the guts to try it (Marmalade is located at 317 Fortaleza). The frozen mango dacquiri was nice, though...
Where You're Docked Ships dock in two places. The best location is just across from the Sheraton Old San Juan (formerly known as the Wyndham) because you walk off the ship into the heart of the old city. Other times, your ship will dock just across the bay -- a stone's throw away -- but it's farther than it looks and you'll need to take a taxi to get anywhere.
Hanging Around Old San Juan, which is an undergoing an awesome renaissance (if you haven't been lately you'll be amazed at how beautiful and spiffed-up its European-esque buildings are, particularly the many that are freshly painted in cheerful pastels of lavender, blue, yellow and pink). The Latino music phenomenon has led to a rebirth in a new, fresh "nuevo Latino" cuisine, which in turn is attracting more attention to the island's quality art, crafts and antiques.
Getting Around On Foot: It's walking distance into the compact -- yet fascinating -- Old San Juan. Streets are uneven (constructed of blue cobblestones cast from furnace slag) and hills are steep, so wear comfortable shoes.
Taxis: At the dock. You can also hail minibuses (called "omnibuses"), which shuttle along main routes; to hail one, respond with a wave when the driver toots his horn.
Renting a Car: Rental car agencies, such as Hertz (800-654-3131, from $26.95) and Avis (800-831-2847, also from $26.95), operate out of Condado (about five miles from Old San Juan). Uniquely, both agencies will reimburse you for up to a $5 cab ride.
Don't Miss Shopping in Old San Juan. While San Juan is not a duty-free port, at least its stuff isn't taxed. You'll certainly find plenty of ol' craft and T-shirt shops (particularly along Fortaleza and San Francisco Streets). One tip: the further east you walk (going away from the cruise pier) the more interesting the shops and restaurants get. One great street for window shopping (if not buying) is Calle Cristo; highlights include Manolo Diaz (99 Calle Cristo), an artisan who works in his shop on crafts using recycled objects -- old mirrors, wooden shutters, antique windows and even pocket-sized religious icons. Prices start at $15 for one-of-a-kind pieces. While, not exactly exotic, we've had good luck at factory stores for Ralph Lauren, Coach and Gant on Calle Cristo. Sunny Caribbee (154 Calle Cristo) is an offshoot of the Tortola classic and features hot sauces and coffees made from Puerto Rican recipes, along with crafts; across the hall, El Galapon has gorgeous masks.
Historic sites of Old San Juan, such as El Morro (tours at 11 a.m. - 3 p.m.), whose original parts were completed in 1539 (and which successfully turned back would-be colonial powers from capturing the island). Also on Old San Juan is San Cristobal Fort (tours at 10 a.m. - 2 p.m.), which was built in 1771.
Take a tour of La Fortaleza (9 a.m. - 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. - 3 p.m.). Visit the Catedral de San Juan, which dates back to 1540. Fans of the Spanish cellist Pablo Casals should check out the Museo Pablo Casals (Plaza San Jose, Tuesday - Saturday 9:30 a.m. - 4:45 p.m.), where the Spanish master's collection includes manuscripts, photographs and a library of video tapes of Festival Casals concerts (played on request).
The beach: While Old San Juan doesn't really boast any, the beaches in the nearby areas of Condado and Isla Verde, stretch along high rise hotels and are a 5- to 10-minute taxi ride (longer during rush hour) from the cruise pier.
Visit the Bacardi Rum Factory. Take the ferry to Catano (it leaves from Pier 2, right next to the cruise ship dock, every half hour and costs $1 roundtrip for the six minute ride; a bus from the Bacardi Rum Factory will pick you up for the tour.
Been There, Done That Visit El Yunque, the only U.S. National Forest to be a rain forest. Located about an hour south of San Juan, you'll see numerous waterfalls, ferns and wildflowers along the marked trails. Because it's a rain forest, it will probably, well, rain during your visit, so pack a slicker.
The Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico in Santurce (just south of Condado, 299 De Diego Avenue, open from 10 a.m. Tuesday - Sunday) exhibits elegant Puerto Rican art along with visiting themed shows. Also a must-see for art lovers is the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Puerto Rico (229 de Diego Avenue), which houses some 700 post-1940's works from artists of Puerto Rico, the Caribbean and Latin America.
You'll need to rent a car to visit Ponce, Puerto Rico's second largest city, which lies on the southern coast and, thanks to a speedy highway, is just a 90-minute drive away. While there, head first for the downtown plaza where highlights include the Parque de Bombas, a bizarre (and historic) red and black painted firehouse and the Catedral de la Guadalupe. Ignore the banal tourist tchotchkes at Coqui (9227 Calle Marina, across from Parque de Bombas) and head for the back of the shop, where gorgeous papier-mache masks (dragon faces, etc.) by the late artist Miguel Carballo are displayed (a mid-sized one costs $110). His wife Norma, also an artisan, has designed smaller ones ($20) and another local artist, Saure, also displays his masks here.
Just down the street is King's Cream, a famous ice cream stand; our limon-flavor was more like a creamy gelato. For a gourmet lunch, a must-visit place is around the corner from Coqui; Mark's at the Melia (Hotel Melia, 75 Calle Cristina, Wednesday - Sunday from noon - 3 p.m., 787-284-6275), owned by husband and wife team Mark and Melody French, is, alone, worth the drive to Ponce (at least for culinary aficionados)! Another star attraction is the Ponce Museum of Art (Las Americas Avenue, open daily from 10 a.m.), which features works by Rubens, Gainsborough, Ribera, Murillo and Sorolla.
For golfers, Bahia Beach is a hidden treasure; a car rental is required to get to this out-of-the-way 18-hole public course that sits at the base of El Yunque and fronts the sea with a gorgeous beach, framed by palms and palmettos. Being totally public, it's also open to non-golf playing visitors (though the club does ask that you politely ask permission). Golf clubs are available for rent.
Try your luck with casino gambling at the big hotels from the Sheraton Old San Juan to the Ritz-Carlton.
Beaches Best Beach for a Half-Day Visit: The beaches that run in front of Isla Verde's luxury hotels (about a 20-minute cab ride); ask the cabbie to drop you off at the Ritz-Carlton or the El San Juan.
Best Beach for the Dedicated Beach Bum: Luqillo Beach (near El Yunque) is a real locals' haunt; there you'll find long stretches of sand, water sports rentals and a great line of food stands offering classic Puerto Rican beach food.
Secluded Beach: The aforementioned Bahia Beach.
Lunching Really casual, in-town joints: Right off the ship head to La Bombonera (259 Calle San Francisco) and belly up to the counter to order a freshly squeezed glass of orange juice (or, for lunch, a classic Cubano sandwich). The circa-1903 bakery-lunch joint is open from 7:30 a.m. - 8:15 p.m. Tapas are big here. Among the great choices for "little plates" include Cafe Bohemio (adjacent to the Hotel El Convento); try the Yuquita Envuelta "fried cassava in bacon and tamarind sauce" note that cassava is like a potato -- and/or the Rolleno de Apio (cod stuffed fritters). The Parrot Club (363 Fortaleza) is the restaurant that inspired San Juan's gourmet revolution and while it's a bit more passe these days, it's one of the few in the trendy SoFo (south of Fortaleza restaurant district) to open for lunch. It's known for its Nuevo Latino cuisine.
Cafe 51 (51 Calle Cristo, serves all day) is a coffee house-style establishment that also serves pastries and sandwiches; nearby the just-opened El Buren Pizza Restaurant (103 Calle Cristo, 11 a.m.) has gourmet pizzas.
Gourmet Dining: Because many ships embark out of San Juan and don't depart until late-night, cruisers should also consider dinner options. Head to the aforementioned SoFo where the hip restaurants of the moment include Marmalade (317 Fortaleza), which offers a U.S.-inspired menu that ranges from malpeque oysters, Hudson Valley foie gras and Virginia lamb (the roasted baby chick with almond fries and foie gras was out of this world). Also new is Cudeta (314 Fortaleza), with, which its pan-Asian cuisine, feels like something out of Bangkok; order the paella valenciana risotto or the shrimp curry. Aquaviva (364 Fortaleza Street) is another trendy new place; it serves seafood (note the whimsical octopus-like chandeliers).
Baires (Plaza del Mercado 9, off San Sebastian Street, noon - 2:30 p.m., from 6 p.m.) was an unexpected find; the Argentinean-themed restaurant has live music some nights and delicious fare, from grilled sweetbreads to steaks to pasta. Dragonfly (364 Calle Fortaleza, from 6 p.m.), a fabulous Latino-Asian restaurant, offers "Dragonfries," which are french fries dusted with cinnamon and ginger. One note: Dragonfly has a pretentious "no reservations, no shorts" door policy.
St. Thomas
View of Charlotte Amalie
Overview
St. Thomas is one of the world's most heavily trafficked cruise ports. Its lofty popularity is earned because St. Thomas offers something for just about everyone (and it's an island that can accommodate a huge, daily population influx). Its duty-free shopping scene is relatively unparalleled -- and because St. Thomas is an American port, U.S. travelers get an extra duty-free allowance from customs (as of 2007, duty-free exemptions are at $1,600 -- twice that of Europe). Other on-the-beaten-track sites include the world-famous beach at Magens Bay and a scenic tram ride to a mountaintop.
But it's also amazingly easy to find some respite from the inevitable crowds by exploring St. Thomas' quieter, more undiscovered side -- a lovely historic district, trips to Water Island (the recently designated fourth Virgin Island), north shore beaches and fabulous restaurants in Frenchtown; it is also an easy jaunt via 20-minute ferry to tranquil St. John. Even Red Hook, which is traditionally thought of as nothing more than the jumping-off point for the far more stunning St. John, has local character (you'll see residents of St. Thomas engaged in everyday life activities) that's a far cry from Charlotte Amalie's shopping mall vibe. Just taking local transportation to the eastern end of the island will have you feeling a modicum of emotional distance from the hectic pier.
Virtually every ship sailing an Eastern Caribbean itinerary includes St. Thomas as a port of call as do many Southern Caribbean voyages. You'll even see St. Thomas on Panama Canal and South American itineraries (when a Florida port such as Ft. Lauderdale or Miami serves as a port of embarkation or debarkation). It is not uncommon, particularly during the Caribbean's winter high season, to see six or more ships docked and/or anchored in a day -- and that can mean an extra 20,000 people infused into a population hovering in the mid-50,000's.
Best Cocktail Alcoholic milkshakes at St. Thomas Dairies (Route 35/Magens Bay Road); try Rumrunner, with rum raisin ice cream and creme de menthe, or Jacoco, with chocolate and coconut ice cream and Kahlua, or -- if you can stand more -- Udder Delite, which is almond crunch and amaretto.
And if you find yourself with an hour to kill in Red Hook before taking the ferry to St. John, the best cocktail for you may be Duffy's Love Shack's 64-ounce Shark Tank (five rums, three liqueurs). There's no extra charge to, um, share it.
Where You're Docked During particularly busy times (i.e. January through March), your ship will dock at Havensight, the primary dock for cruise ships, or Crown Bay, which opened a new port facility in early 2007. If more than six ships call on St. Thomas in one day, your ship could be anchored in the harbor; the tenders will drop you in the heart of Charlotte Amalie.
Getting Around By Taxi: Though they do exist, individual "cabs" are highly unusual. In most cases, you'll be shepherded to a van or safari truck that's heading in the vicinity of your destination -- and may make multiple stops on the way as locals ask the driver to let them off. You'll pay a set price per person (prices are listed in This Week: St. Thomas/St. John). From Havensight to town is $5 per person; from Crown Bay to Charlotte Amalie is $4. Tipping is recommended when a driver is particularly helpful or garrulous, but not required.
Editor's Note: Though this won't apply to most day-trippers, here's a helpful warning: Taxi drivers like to load up as many people as possible and travel to on-the-beaten-path tourist sites. If you want to veer off that path, you may have trouble finding a driver to take you (in that case we recommend you rent a car).
By Car: At Havensight, Avis has an outpost; advance reservations are highly recommended and rentals start from $56 a day. From Crown Bay, the nearest car rental offices are at the airport (a five-minute taxi ride); Hertz, Avis and Budget have desks there and rentals start at $35 a day.
Critical note: Drive on the left! We'll admit that it does take a little while to get the hang of it. Also, hand use of cell phones while driving is against the law.
Hanging Around Havensight: Right at the dock at Havensight is, in essence, a mini-downtown. There are more than 50 shops, many of which are outposts of Charlotte Amalie's better-known boutiques, such as A.H. Riese, H. Stern and Royal Caribbean (the electronics store, not the cruise line). Also within the expansive Havensight shopping area is Dockside Books, the island's only bookstore; Gourmet Gallery, with a terrific selection of wine and Caribbean beer; a post office; Banco Popular, First Bank and Chase Manhattan Bank ATM's; and Havensight Pharmacy. There are plenty of pay phones for cruisers with calling cards who want to avoid costly on-ship phone calls.
Across the main drag running outside Havensight's facility are convenience stores, coffee shops and Internet cafes.
New -- and within walking distance from the Havensight pier -- is the Yacht Haven Grande Marina; when you exit your ship, turn left and follow the dock around the harbor. It's the first genuinely upscale shopping and dining area to open in St. Thomas in years and, though still being completed, already has a couple of restaurants and shops like Coach and Chico's. They're not duty-free, by the way.
Beyond the immediate facility, the best bargains on duty-free liquor can be found at K-Mart -- no lie! Walk up Long Bay Boulevard to the Lockhart Gardens K-Mart (you'll notice a lot of crewmembers heading that way -- they're always a good tip-off as they visit often). On the way, a don't-miss hint: In the parking lot of the Pueblo supermarket, look for a green canvas umbrella where Dominican-transplant Martha Jolly sells gorgeous wicker stuff -- at remarkably modest prices. Highlights include a coconut-shell-shaped handbag ($15) and laundry hampers ($50 to $100 depending on size). She also sells gorgeous tropical flowers, from birds of paradise to ginger lily.
Crown Bay: A gorgeous new port area just opened in early 2007, complete with recreated stone sugar mill in honor of the island's plantation era. At this point it's pretty empty; tenants so far include a First Bank, and Love and Joy in the USVI, which offers Internet services.
Otherwise, passengers whose ships are docked in Crown Bay have more limited options. Within walking distance is Frank's Bake Shop (23 Subbase), a charming spot for gourmet coffee and pastries; try the guava danish. The Crown Bay Marina has a branch of Gourmet Gallery (and the ferry to Water Island leaves from here). Tickles is a charming waterside pub at the marina with nautical decor. But you'll need to head downtown for serious shopping and dining.
Editor's Note: If your ship calls at St. Thomas on Sunday beware that shops (and many attractions) in downtown Charlotte Amalie are open only from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m.
Don't Miss Charlotte Amalie is easily walkable and a duty-free shopping mecca. Stores are primarily located on Waterfront Highway and, running parallel behind it, Main Street. Barkers occasionally attempt to beckon you into shops (they're paid each day based on the store's sales), but are generally less intrusive than in other Caribbean ports (and, often, quite interesting to talk to). While St. Thomas enjoys a reputation as a duty-free paradise, beware: It's not quite the bargain it used to be and it pays to comparison shop. In the market for a camera, we actually found the prices to be comparable to those found at Best Buy and more expensive than on Amazon.com -- with no room for haggling.
Highlights include A.H. Riese (Main Street), a variety of boutiques selling high-end perfumes, jewelry, antique maps and liquor (they'll deliver your bottles to your ship on request) -- all in an elegant setting. Down Island Traders (Waterfront Highway) specializes in Caribbean-made and/or produced foodstuffs, such as spices, out-of-this-world rum cakes, hot sauces and jams; it also sells regional crafts and Del Sol (Waterfront Highway) for T-shirts, hair clips, sunglasses and cosmetics, like 20 varieties of nail polish that transform into bursts of color when exposed to the sun. For a cold beer -- which you can consume in public -- and brand paraphernalia, stop at the Virgin Islands Brewing Co. company store, makers of the refreshing Blackbeard's Ale (which, alas, is no longer brewed here; it's now made in the U.S.).
Also check out elegant boutiques for apparel; Nicole Miller, Calvin Klein, Polo Ralph Lauren, The White House and Tommy Hilfiger are among the well-known names with shops downtown. Other fashion finds include Local Color (Waterfront Highway) for great, casual cotton dresses, and the Bambini Arts Gallery (Royal Dane Mall) for hand-painted silk scarves.
Otherwise, price-shop at so-called "bargain" shops like Perfume Palace (perfume), Royal Caribbean (electronics and jewelry), Diamonds International (jewelry) and Little Switzerland (imported china, crystal and jewelry). At Vendors' Plaza, locals hawk straw hats, tropical-print sundresses and T-shirts.
Beyond shopping, a walking tour of Charlotte Amalie should include a visit to Fort Christian (on the waterfront, across from Vendor's Plaza), a national historic landmark that dates back to the 17th century; you can climb the tower for great harbor views. Climb the 99 Steps (Kongens Gade/Government Hill, next to Hotel 1829) -- though there are actually 103 -- to experience historic downtown's finest neighborhood with lovely 19th-century plantation homes. Adjacent to the steps is a worthy pit stop: Haagensen House, an 1820's townhouse that's a museum and garden with a great gift shop selling antiques. The St. Thomas Synagogue (Raadets Gade and Crystal Gade), which is the Western Hemisphere's second oldest (the oldest is located in Curacao). It was built in 1833 by Sephardic Jews and is open for tours. The floor is covered with sand symbolizing the flight of the Jews out of Egypt and across the desert.
Coral World is one of those well-hyped tourist attractions that actually lives up to expectations. Located at Coki Beach (cab ride required), it's a 4.5-acre marine park whose highlight is an underwater observatory with 360-degree views of fish and other sea creatures -- the only way to see fish without getting wet.
For a great island view and excellent photo opportunity, take the Paradise Point Tramway, across from Havensight. It climbs 700 ft. to Paradise Point (there's a little shopping area with the obvious tourist trinkets at the apex). Another great viewpoint can be found at Mountain Top, the island's highest point -- 1,500 feet -- which also features tourist shops and is popular with the tour bus crowd. On the way, stop off at St. Peter Greathouse Estate and Gardens, a tropical boutique near Mountain Top.
Been There, Done That Arts and Crafts. The most interesting shops for quality art and crafts from regional artisans are located outside of downtown; must-visits for aficionados include Mango Tango (Al Cohen's Plaza, Raphune Hill), which has the island's best selection of original art as well as gorgeous teakwood furnishings -- and a humidor with a wide variety of cigars. The Color of Joy (Red Hook's American Yacht Harbor) showcases work by a range of artists, including Jane Clemo's mocko jumbie dolls, Sloop Jones' hand-painted clothing and Doreen Walsh's batiks. Kilnworks Pottery & Art Gallery (Smith Bay), the creation of ceramic artist Peggy Siewert, has a lot of lizard-themed art as well as more avant-garde pieces.
Editor's Note: If you're interested in serious arts and crafts shopping, rent a car or hire a driver for the day.
At Mahogany Run, not only do you get to play golf but you also get to spend time in one of the island's most gorgeous settings. The highlight? The 13th, 14th and 15th holes in "Devil's Triangle" border cliffs that overlook the Atlantic. Cost is $100 per person, which includes green and cart fees (check your cruise line for special excursions; Carnival offers a golf trip for $160, which also includes a private lesson from a pro). Tee times range from 7 a.m. until 2 p.m. for 18 holes (you can also play 9), and you can rent golf clubs at the pro shop, starting from $30. There's a snack bar on the premises. Tee-time reservations can be made up to 48 hours in advance by calling 800-253-7103 or 340-777-6006.
Go for a stroll -- before indulging in a gourmet lunch (see in-town restaurants) -- through Frenchtown (opposite the harbor from Havensight). This eclectic neighborhood was settled in the 18th century by French Huguenots from St. Barth's and is now a neighborhood of fishermen. It is still home to some original descendants, and you can occasionally hear locals conversing in French.
Beaches Best Beach for a Half-Day Visit: Magens Bay, St. Thomas' (and some would say the world's) most gorgeous -- and calmest -- beach, is a 20-minute taxi ride; the facility includes a bar, a cafeteria-style eatery, and one of the island's best shops for casualwear and bathing suits. Admission is $3 per person.
Best Beach for the Dedicated Beach Bum: Gotta go to St. John.
Best Beach for Active Types: Sapphire Beach, a resort on the island's East End, has the most stunning view as it faces St. John and the British Virgin Islands. Virtually every conceivable type of watersports equipment is available for rent, from kayaks to jet skis to Sunfish sail boats. Coki Beach, adjacent to Coral World, is a good destination for snorkeling and scuba diving (equipment can be rented there).
Best Secluded Beach: Water Island's Honeymoon Beach is the quintessential secret hideaway, particularly on weekdays (locals flock to it on weekends). While the beach itself is lovely -- a half-mile stretch of sand that's lined with coconut palms -- what's important about Water Island is what's not here. There's no gift shop, rowdy bar, restaurant or Jet Ski rental operator. There may or may not be a bathroom (sometimes it's open, sometimes not).
A water shuttle leaves from Crown Bay Marina ($3 each way) at 8 a.m. and 10:30 a.m. and returns from Water Island at 2:15 and 4:30 p.m. It's a good idea to double-check those times when you arrive as they are subject to change. Most major lines also offer a Water Island shore excursion that involves an easy downhill bike ride into the secluded beach area and a picnic lunch. Check with your cruise line for availability. Tip: Pick up a picnic at the Gourmet Gallery in Crown Bay before hopping on the water shuttle.
Lunching Casual, In-Town Joints: Our newest discovery is Amalia Cafe (Palm Terrace, Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. until 2 p.m.); its owners -- a native St. Thomasian who's traveled the world and his Austrian wife -- serve Mediterranean fare amidst a lovely historic ambience. Try the bouillabaisse. Other choices: Cuzzin's Caribbean Restaurant (7 Back Street, Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. until 5 p.m.) for regional fare ... Cafe Amici (Dronnigens Gade, Monday until Saturday, from 11:30 a.m.) serves Mediterranean cuisine with local influences; the grilled tuna sandwich and salad nicoise are highlights ... Gladys' (Royal Dane Mall, every day from 11 a.m.) offers West Indian cuisine such as conch and fungi and mutton stew along with more traditional items ... The rollicking Greenhouse Bar & Restaurant (Waterfront, every day from 11 a.m.) for basic burgers and frozen drinks.
Gourmet In-Town Lunching: Virgilio's (Dronnigen's Gade, Monday - Saturday from 11:30 a.m.) is a fabulous Italian restaurant with eccentric decor (a large collection of paintings of women, some quite abstract), stone and Pepto Bismol-pink painted walls. If the paprika ravioli on the menu, order it. On Government Hill, Herve Restaurant & Wine Bar (Monday through Saturday, from 11:30 a.m.) has excellent views, food and a wine list. If you're jonesing for sushi, check out Beni Iguana's (Grand Hotel Court, Veteran's Drive), St. Thomas' only sushi joint.
In Frenchtown: Craig & Sally's (22 Honduras, Wednesday - Friday only, 11:30 a.m. - 3 p.m.), in this quirky neighborhood settled by St. Bart's refugees in the 19th century, is arguably the island's best restaurant. There's a great wine list and the menu changes daily based on chef's whim and what's fresh. Also in Frenchtown is all-around favorite Bella Blu (Honduras, Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m.), part Austrian (yes, you can order wiener schnitzel), part American (good burgers and wonderful fresh fried calamari).
If You're Waiting for a Ferry at Red Hook: Check out the new Lotus, a chic, sleek Asian fusion place (American Yacht Harbor, from 11:30 a.m. Monday through Saturday; from 4 p.m. Sunday). Molly Malone's (American Yacht Harbor, everyday all day) a faux Irish pub, has a menu that veers toward the British staples of shepard's pie and fish and chips along with traditional American sandwiches. Duffy's Love Shack (parking lot in Red Hook Plaza from 11:30 a.m. daily) is famous for its huge tropical drinks (see above); food is served as well.
In Havensight: The Yacht Haven Marina, a new upscale shopping, dining and docking complex located just around the corner from ships docked at Havensight, offers the new W!kked (open daily from 11 a.m.), one of St. Thomas' few outdoor eateries. Try the elegantly presented -- and delicious -- French fries. However, we found it still is finding its rhythm, service wise. The Fat Turtle, in the same complex, also has waterfront seating; it's the place for more casual fare.
Editor's Note: On weekends in St. Thomas, few fine dining restaurants are open for lunch (W!kked is one exception; the restaurant features a day-long brunch menu).
Accommodations While St. Thomas is not a major port of embarkation a la San Juan, it does serve as a starting (and ending point) for smaller vessels during the winter Caribbean season, mostly luxury ships from Seabourn, SeaDream and Windstar, among others. Our picks for pre- and post-stay hotels:
Stay a night or two at the best place to watch the ships come in: the relatively new At Home in the Tropics, a charming four-room bed and breakfast. It's in a great location -- just above the hills rising from downtown Charlotte Amalie and in the city's most loving refurbished historic district. The inn itself once served as a barracks for the Danish army. Owners Pam and Matt Eckstein have completely overhauled with a loving but careful touch; their Maine roots are visible via the simply furnished, totally comfortable guest rooms (all with private baths; shower only and cable TV). There's an indoor living room, a fabulous covered porch with cozy furnishings, and a lovely pool on site. The views are breathtaking and even better, the rates are reasonable. Plan to pay about $200 a night in high season; this includes a full breakfast.
The hermetically sealed Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas has gotten a refurbishment and it promises the usual upscale comforts, on-site dining, kids' program, pools and private beach. One caveat: It's a far distance from both the airport and the cruise pier for those flying in the day before and staying just one night.
Our favorite choice for best splurge hotel -- if you have at least two extra nights to enjoy it -- is the historic Caneel Bay on St. John. This sprawling resort, dating back to the 1950's, is all about relaxation (no televisions, no phones and until recently no air conditioning). The grounds are lavish (and even lush when it rains here), there are four restaurants, and five beaches. Even better, the hotel sends private ferries to transport passengers to and from the airport as well as to the heart of Charlotte Amalie (from there it's an easy taxi ride to your ship). This is also a great spot for families; the resort offers programs for kids.
Staying in Touch Numerous Internet cafes are available at Havensight. In Charlotte Amalie itself, try Beans, Bytes and Websites Cafe (Royal Dane Mall); it's also an excellent place to find light fare (sandwiches, cold drinks and beyond).
Antigua
Dickenson Bay
Overview
Antiguans like to boast that they have 365 beaches -- one for each day of the year. And while no one is really counting to ensure the accuracy of this catchy marketing campaign, it's true that this squiggly-shaped island is full of beachy gems, each with their own unique appeal.
Antigua was first occupied by the peaceful Arawak Indians around 200 B.C. They stayed until the arrival of the Caribs, an Amazonian tribe, whose name was derived from the Spanish word "caribal," meaning "cannibal." Then, the island was known as Wadadli until 1492 when Columbus, who never actually made landfall, sailed by and named the island in honor of Maria de la Antigua, the saint he worshipped in Seville. Eventually the English gained control, and retained it until just 25 years ago when Antigua achieved independence.
The island was an important colonial base of the Royal Navy with English Harbor serving as its headquarters. The remains of its presence are still some of the most fascinating attractions to tourists -- a walk around historic Nelson's Dockyard and the grounds of Shirley Heights reveals remnants of a working Georgian harbor, old forts and officer's quarters, as well as a multitude of crumbling sugar mills from the days when sugar plantations ruled the island. In more recent years, English Harbor has become the capital of international yachting and sailing, whose activities are responsible for the surge in population during the winter months from 70,000 to 100,000. The season opens in December with the Antigua Yacht Show, and ends in May with Antigua Sailing Week, the largest annual regatta in the Caribbean.
Since gaining independence, Antigua has all but abandoned its agricultural heritage in favor of a tourist economy. Antigua can hold its own in the duty-free shopping category, but the real highlights of the island lie well beyond the port town. With 365 beaches to explore, it's best to check out at least a few of them during your trip. Antigua's sister island, Barbuda, is accessible by ferry for day-trippers. The ferry drops you in the middle of 14 miles of unspoiled pink shell beach, one that used to be a favorite of Princess Diana.
Weather in Antigua averages a pleasant 84 degrees year-round, but in the summer when the trade winds die down, it's a slightly less hospitable climate. Antiguans celebrate these slower summer months with the annual Carnivale at the end of July. The island is susceptible to hurricanes, although they have not had a direct hit for over 12 years.
Language English is the main language on Antigua, although in some of the smaller villages around the island you'll find Spanish as well.
Currency & Best Way to Get Money Antigua uses the Eastern Caribbean Dollar (E.C.), although most of the vendors in town will readily accept U.S. dollars. Current exchange rate is $2.70 E.C. $1 U.S. Bank machines are available across from Heritage Quay at ABIB Bank and Scotia Bank.
Best Souvenir Visit Sarah Fuller's Pottery Stand on Redcliffe Quay to take home one of her handmade pottery light sconces. You'll see them all over the island in homes, hotels and downtown areas. Lights shine through cut-out designs of lizards, fish, seahorses, flowers and other shapes. Small scones are $37 U.S.
Best Cocktail Be sure to order a Wadadli beer, a light beer made on the island or a rum punch made with Antigua Cavalier Rum, also made locally. Too soon for happy hour? For a cool thirst quencher, try a lime squash, an island specialty made with club soda, fresh lime juice and sugar.
Where You're Docked There is one main dock at the Heritage Quay in St. John's, the island's capital city. Shopping, restaurants, bank machines and local transportation are all within a few blocks of the Quay.
On Foot: It's walking distance into the compact -- yet fascinating -- Old San Juan. Streets are uneven (constructed of blue cobblestones cast from furnace slag) and hills are steep, so wear comfortable shoes.
